In the Andes, an estancia is never just a place to sleep. It is a family's history, horses saddled at first light, and a table set with recipes passed down for generations. The mountains are the backdrop; the people who open their doors are the story.
This month we take you to two of them in Mendoza: a 20th-century mountain shelter that became a family's summer home, and a lodge built around the region's highest organic vineyard. Then we head to the Patagonian coast, where a historic estancia reopens its doors to independent travellers, and further south still, to the fjords of Tierra del Fuego, where two of our team have just returned.
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Just in: three estancias, from the Andes to the Atlantic
Los Chulengos, a hidden gem in the Andes of Mendoza
What began as a simple 20th-century mountain shelter later became the Palma family's summer retreat. For more than 20 years they have opened its doors to guests, sharing this corner of the Uco Valley at 2,230 metres, at the foot of Cerro El Plata and about two hours from Mendoza.
Days here follow a rhythm the modern world seems to have forgotten: riding through the mountains and hiking across the hills, with condors overhead, among streams, horses and cattle. Back at the table come family recipes: empanadas from the clay oven, grilled beef and fresh trout. The historic house keeps its original architecture, with three double rooms with private bathrooms in a warm gaucho style. For families or larger groups, Casa del Haras, 200 metres from the main lodge, serves as an annex.
Best for: riders, couples and families who want the Andes at a slower pace, away from the wine route crowds.
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Estancia San Alberto Lodge: high-mountain living and organic vines in Uspallata
Sixteen years of family passion and deep wine-growing roots went into San Alberto, a quiet enclave in Uspallata, Mendoza, with 360-degree views of the Andes. The suites feel like a comfortable mountain refuge, and the service is highly personal.
The vineyard: the lodge is home to what it describes as Mendoza's highest organic gobelet vineyard, cultivated and harvested entirely by hand.
The table: regional cooking over an open fire, with vegetables from the lodge's organic garden, local meats and artisanal cheeses.
The house: built with timber from old oak wine barrels and historic scales, and walls of local stone and adobe.
Wildlife: condors, guanacos, choiques (lesser rheas) and foxes, and a microclimate along San Alberto Creek.
Energy and waste: the lodge reports that solar power supplies 70% of its energy, and that composting and recycling have cut its waste by 45%.
Best for: wine lovers and couples who want the high Andes on the road between Mendoza and Aconcagua.
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Estancia El Pedral reopens: authentic Patagonia, now for independent travellers
On the coast south of Puerto Madryn, the Stocker family is reopening the doors of their historic homestead for a new season. Instead of closed groups, the estancia now welcomes independent travellers who want a personal stay at their own pace, where rural traditions meet the wildlife that returns to these shores every year.
Historic house stays (15 Sep 2026 – 25 Apr 2027): only 8 rooms, full board and activities included, no minimum stay.
Full buyout: the whole estancia for families, friends, incentives or private celebrations.
Countryside & penguin day tour from Puerto Madryn, maximum 20 guests: Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from September to December; Wednesday and Saturday from January to March.
The quincho: an event space for up to 60 guests, for private events and corporate meetings.
In one place, guests can see traditional sheep farming, walk among a penguin colony, spot whales from the shore and watch elephant seals and sea lions, and, with a little luck, orcas.
Best for: nature lovers and families combining Península Valdés with a night on a working estancia.
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Just back from the fjords of Tierra del Fuego
At the end of the world, the rarest luxury is having a place to yourself. Delfina and Clara, from our team, have just sailed the Chilean fjords aboard the Ventus Australis. At Pía Glacier, Cóndor Glacier and Wulaia Bay theirs was the only ship in sight, and even at Cape Horn, where other ships do call, they had the headland to themselves.
The ship is immaculate, with wide windows for watching the fjords and cabins that feel spacious by cruise standards. There is no internet on board, by design. Australis calls it "disconnect to connect", and passengers soon find themselves talking to each other instead of their phones.
The guides make the voyage. Briefings on history, biology and glaciology are lively, questions are welcome, and the team speaks English, French, German and Spanish. Two outings are by Zodiac only, close to the ice; the rest combine a Zodiac landing with a walk. Every excursion is graded, and even the "very difficult" ones are around 5 km, pitched for the ship's mostly adult guests. There is still time to rest, which you will appreciate by Cape Horn.
Best for: adults and nature lovers who value remoteness, small numbers and a few days offline.
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Where to stay in Punta Arenas
Hotel La Yegua Loca (our team's favourite): a 14-room boutique hotel where every room is themed on gaucho and estancia life, and in our team's view the best restaurant in Punta Arenas. It sits on a historic cobbled hill below the Cerro La Cruz viewpoint, a few blocks from the centre. Book early, both for rooms and for dinner.
Hotel José Nogueira: 22 rooms in the grand Palacio Sara Braun, with beautiful public areas, excellent restaurants and warm service. Standard rooms are bright but compact; ask for a quiet side if you are a light sleeper.
Almasur Punta Arenas: choose the Classic, which is comfortable throughout and has a triple room with a bunk bed for families with teens.
Hotel Cabo de Hornos: 180 rooms on the main square, well kept and ideal for groups or before and after Antarctica. Only rooms in the main tower look out over the Strait of Magellan.
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Travel calendar: the next 12 months in Argentina
Plan around
21–23 Nov 2026: long weekend (National Sovereignty Day). High domestic demand.
5–8 Dec 2026: long weekend (Immaculate Conception).
25 Dec 2026 and 1 Jan 2027: Christmas and New Year. Reduced services.
6–9 Feb 2027: Carnival long weekend. Busiest in Salta and Jujuy.
24 Mar 2027: National Day of Memory. Large marches in central Buenos Aires.
25–28 Mar 2027: Easter.
2–4 Apr 2027: Malvinas Day long weekend.
1 and 25 May 2027: Labour Day and May Revolution Day.
19–21 Jun, 9–11 Jul and 14–16 Aug 2027: long weekends.
August 2027 (TBC): primary elections (PASO).
9–11 Oct 2027: long weekend.
24 Oct 2027: presidential and congressional elections. Possible runoff around 21 Nov.
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Worth travelling for
13–15 Nov 2026: Fiesta Nacional de la Tradición, San Antonio de Areco.
23–31 Jan 2027: Cosquín Folklore Festival, Córdoba.
8–9 Feb 2027: Carnival in the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
5–6 Mar 2027: Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia, Mendoza.
12–14 Mar 2027: Lollapalooza Argentina, Buenos Aires.
Late Aug 2027 (TBC): Tango BA Festival y Mundial, Buenos Aires.
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